Madeira’s Grand Hotel Above the Atlantic

Afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace comes with an unusually compelling view. Beyond the terrace, gardens fall toward the Atlantic, while the coast curves around Funchal Bay. Sandwiches, warm scones, and a pot of tea provide a reason to sit still, but the setting makes it easy to remain long after the last pastry has disappeared.

Opened in 1891, Reid’s Palace has helped define the experience of visiting Madeira for generations. Its pink exterior, subtropical grounds, and ocean-facing terraces belong to the island’s visual identity, while its 126 rooms and suites preserve the intimacy of a hotel where daily rituals still matter. A morning swim, a walk through the gardens, and dinner overlooking the water can form a satisfying day without leaving the property.

For us, its appeal is the combination of a substantial resort setting and proximity to Funchal. There is space to settle into the hotel, with the city and Madeira’s varied landscapes within reach whenever the mood shifts toward exploring.

William Reid’s Ambition, Continued by His Sons

The hotel began with William Reid, a Scottish entrepreneur who arrived in Madeira in 1836. Recognizing the island’s appeal to travelers, he developed the ambition to build a grand hotel overlooking the ocean. Construction began in 1887, but Reid died before the project was completed. His sons carried it forward, opening the property in 1891 under the name The New Hotel.

Reid’s Palace was conceived as a hotel from the outset. Its scale and setting reflect an era when an island holiday involved a considerable journey and often a lengthy stay. Belmond’s account of the early years describes visitors arriving by boat and being carried up the cliff by porters – a striking contrast with today’s short drive from the airport.

Famous visitors became part of its story. George Bernard Shaw learned to tango here, while Winston Churchill came to paint and work on his memoirs. Their associations are more interesting as glimpses of daily life than as a list of celebrated names: this was somewhere people came to spend time, develop routines, and pursue their interests.

The hotel’s guided heritage tour brings those stories together, tracing the property’s development and providing context for spaces that otherwise might simply appear elegant. We would make time for it early in a stay; knowing what happened here gives an afternoon on the terrace another dimension.

Pink Walls, Patterned Fabrics, and Garden Paths

Reid’s Palace retains the decorative language of a traditional grand hotel. Patterned upholstery, wooden furniture, carefully dressed windows, and comfortable sitting areas create rooms intended for lingering. The atmosphere is residential and layered, with the sea providing a constant visual connection between the interiors and the outdoors.

The Main Building and Garden Wing offer different outlooks, while balconies and terraces encourage spending time beyond the bedroom. Some spaces feel closely connected to the planting; others open toward the coastline and a broader sweep of water. That difference deserves consideration alongside room size.

The gardens are equally important to the design. Across approximately ten acres, paths and planted slopes soften the hotel’s position above the ocean. A guided walk with a horticultural expert helps explain the collection and the island’s growing conditions, but even an informal stroll changes the experience of the property. There are quieter corners away from the main terraces, and returning by another path can reveal an entirely different view.

More recent touches, including the botanical inspiration of 1891 Bar, continue that relationship between the gardens and the interiors without abandoning the hotel’s established character.

Rooms with a Place to Watch the Sea

Accommodation ranges from traditional guest rooms to two distinctive Signature Suites. The current collection includes the following categories, with approximate sizes in square feet.

Superior Room: Approximately 248–280 sq. ft., with a king or twin beds, classic furnishings, and garden and partial sea views, providing a comfortable base in either the Main Building or Garden Wing.
Deluxe Sea View Room: Approximately 280–334 sq. ft., featuring a king or twin beds and a generous furnished balcony in a prime position for uninterrupted sea views.
Family Room: Approximately 334–398 sq. ft., located in the Garden Wing with a king or twin beds, a sofa bed, and a furnished patio looking toward the gardens.
Deluxe Junior Suite: Approximately 398 sq. ft., combining a king or twin beds with additional space to relax, a balcony, and views of the sea or the sea and gardens.
Superior Suite: Approximately 463 sq. ft., offering a king or twin beds, full sea views, and a large furnished balcony, with accommodation available in both the Main Building and Garden Wing.
Deluxe Suite: Approximately 570 sq. ft., set in the Main Building with a king or twin beds, an oversized furnished balcony, and views across the sea or the sea and gardens.
Atlantica Suite: Approximately 861 sq. ft., pairing a king bedroom with separate living space, maritime-inspired details, a kitchenette, and panoramic balconies that emphasize its connection with the Atlantic.
Winston Churchill Suite: Approximately 861 sq. ft., featuring a king bedroom, separate living space, rich wood finishes, hand-painted wallpaper, a kitchenette, and a furnished veranda with two large balconies.

For a longer stay, we would prioritize the outlook and the amount of usable sitting space. Families should also consider connecting arrangements, which are available in selected categories and need to be confirmed in advance. The best choice will depend on how the room is used, whether primarily as a place to sleep or as somewhere to spend a substantial part of the afternoon.

From Tea on the Terrace to Dinner at William

Reid’s Palace offers enough variety to make dining at the hotel appealing across several days. Formal dinners, outdoor lunches, and the much-loved tea service each have their place.

William Restaurant: The hotel’s one-Michelin-star restaurant presents contemporary cuisine centered on Madeiran produce, with tasting menus and panoramic coastline views.
Ristorante Villa Cipriani: Italian dining in a separate setting close to the main hotel, with an open-air terrace overlooking the Atlantic.
Brisa do Mar: An outdoor restaurant combining Portuguese cooking with Mediterranean influences, accompanied by views along the coast.
Pool Terrace: A relaxed setting for breakfast beside the heated pool, followed by light dishes and refreshments throughout the day.
Afternoon Tea: Finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones, and local pastries served with a wide choice of teas or an optional glass of champagne.
1891 Bar: A comfortable stop for an aperitif or nightcap, with botanical references appearing in both the interiors and the cocktail menu.
Tea Library: A dedicated space for discovering rare and local tea blends and the stories behind them.
Gelateria San Giorgio: An artisanal gelato offering inspired by Belmond’s Portofino gelateria, incorporating ingredients sourced on Madeira.

Afternoon tea merits a place in the itinerary even for travelers who rarely make time for it at home. The pleasure is partly in the food, but equally in the pause it creates. Reserve ahead, especially if the terrace is a priority, and check seasonal restaurant availability when arranging dinners.

Atlantic Air and Time at Maré Spa

Maré Spa takes its inspiration from Madeira’s marine setting and plant life, with ocean views maintaining the connection to the surroundings during a treatment. Massage and skincare appointments offer an easy transition from a morning outdoors to a quieter afternoon at the hotel.

The spa includes a couples’ treatment space, sauna, steam room, and relaxation facilities. Rather than treating a visit as another appointment to fit between excursions, we would allow time afterward to enjoy the setting. There is little benefit in emerging from a restorative hour only to rush straight into a car.

The wider wellness program includes Pilates, mindfulness sessions, and creative activities such as botanical art and mindful writing. Indoor and outdoor fitness facilities support a regular exercise routine, while tennis provides another way to spend time outside.

Swimming is central to a stay. Two heated pools – one freshwater and one seawater – are complemented by a tidal pool beside the ocean. Direct sea access is another distinctive feature, although Atlantic swimming depends on conditions. This is a coastal hotel with access to the water, rather than a conventional sandy-beach resort.

Garden Walks and Days on the Water

Some of the most rewarding experiences begin within the grounds. The garden tour introduces the planting through the eyes of a horticulturalist, while botanical art and watercolor sessions offer a more focused way to observe it. These quieter activities suit the hotel’s pace and provide variety between excursions.

Beyond the property, the concierge can arrange boat outings, dolphin- and whale-watching trips, and private yacht experiences. Seeing Madeira from the water reveals the height and shape of its coastline in a way that a road journey cannot. Wildlife encounters remain a possibility rather than a promise, and the choice of outing should reflect the sea conditions and the interests of the group.

The Desertas Islands provide a more substantial day at sea. The hotel’s excursion program includes opportunities to explore this protected island setting with a guide, with Mediterranean monk seals among its remarkable but elusive inhabitants.

On land, guided hiking and visits to Madeira’s eastern or western landscapes offer a different sense of the island. We would alternate these fuller days with time at Reid’s itself. Returning from an excursion to a familiar terrace is part of the pleasure of using one hotel as a base.

A Grand Hotel That Makes Room for Children

The traditional atmosphere does not make Reid’s Palace an adults-only retreat. Fun@Reid’s provides supervised activities for children aged three to nine, with a dedicated children’s pool and spaces for play. Its design references the distinctive houses of Santana, adding a small connection to the island beyond the usual playroom setting.

Practical touches include children’s menus, highchairs, and the availability of cots or extra beds in suitable accommodation. Babysitting can be requested, allowing parents to plan a quieter dinner or treatment while keeping the rest of the stay centered on shared time.

For multigenerational trips, the ability to separate into different activities is particularly useful. One part of the family might head out for a walk or boat trip, while others stay by the pool. Confirming room configurations and childcare arrangements before arrival makes that flexibility much easier to enjoy.

Caring for the Island Behind the View

Reid’s Palace sits within Belmond’s wider environmental and social program, which emphasizes responsible gastronomy, habitat protection, and the people connected to its destinations. These are group-level commitments, rather than a reason to assume that every initiative operates identically at each hotel.

At Reid’s, the relationship with Madeira is particularly visible in the food. William Restaurant places island produce at the center of its cooking, while other dining venues also draw on local ingredients. Garden interpretation and experiences involving Madeiran food and wine help connect a stay with the island’s living traditions.

For travelers, there are straightforward ways to support that relationship: choose knowledgeable local guides, respect paths and protected areas, and approach marine wildlife as something to observe without disturbance. Madeira’s landscapes are a large part of the reason to visit, and experiencing them thoughtfully helps preserve their appeal.

Navigating a Historic Clifftop Property

Belmond lists adapted accommodation and wheelchair-accessible communal areas at Reid’s Palace. Individual requirements should nevertheless be reviewed in advance, particularly because the hotel occupies several levels above the sea.

We would confirm the specific bedroom and bathroom layout, lift dimensions, and routes to preferred restaurants, pools, and garden areas before booking. Access to the oceanfront should be discussed separately from access to the main hotel, with any required assistance included in the planning.

Funchal and the Island Beyond

Funchal gives a stay at Reid’s an urban dimension without overwhelming the resort atmosphere. The city’s historic streets, churches, museums, gardens, and waterfront make it worth setting aside time simply to explore. A Madeira wine experience adds context to one of the island’s best-known traditions, while the hillside district of Monte offers another perspective over the city.

Farther inland, the scenery changes considerably. Madeira’s levadas and walking trails introduce valleys, forest, and agricultural landscapes, while the Laurissilva provides a striking contrast with the sunny coastal gardens. Routes differ in difficulty and exposure, so choosing a walk around ability and current conditions is more useful than pursuing a particular photograph.

The island rewards a varied itinerary. A city morning, a guided walk, a boat outing, and a largely unplanned hotel day can each reveal something different. Reid’s works especially well as the place that connects them, giving the trip a consistent rhythm without requiring every day to look the same.

Getting There

By Air: Arrive at Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (FNC), approximately 20–25 minutes from Reid’s Palace by car, depending on traffic.
By Private Transfer or Taxi: The hotel can arrange an airport transfer, and taxis are also available at FNC; allow approximately 20–25 minutes for the journey.
By Car: Driving from the airport takes approximately 20–25 minutes, with complimentary valet parking available for hotel guests.
From Central Funchal: The hotel is approximately a 10-minute drive from the city center, with a complimentary hotel shuttle offered on a scheduled basis.

An Afternoon Worth Leaving Open

There is a particular satisfaction in returning to Reid’s Palace with nothing left on the day’s schedule. The gardens are still there to wander, the sea is still in view, and the terrace needs no occasion beyond a free hour.

The hotel’s history gives these ordinary pleasures a sense of continuity. Generations of travelers have come here to swim, read, talk, and watch the light change over the Atlantic. Much has changed since their arrival by sea, but the appeal of taking one’s time remains easy to understand.

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